Buri gicuruzwa cyatoranijwe neza nitsinda ryacu ryandika.Niba uguze ibicuruzwa binyuze mumihuza yacu, dushobora kubona komisiyo.
Ibikoresho bya reberi nibyiza kumazi, siporo cyangwa icyi, ariko ubuziranenge nibiciro biratandukanye cyane.
Ubusanzwe, imishumi ya reberi ntabwo ikunda cyane igitsina.Bamwe mu bakusanya amasaha hamwe n’abakunzi bazwiho kujya impaka ku byiza bya vintage Tropic na ISOfrane, ariko muri rusange, abantu ntibafite ishyaka nkiryo rya reberi nkuko babikora, bavuga, vintage Oyster ikingira amakariso cyangwa amasaro ya Gay Freres.Umuceri.Ndetse imishumi igezweho yimpu isa nkaho igenda yitabwaho nisi yisi.
Ibi byose birashimishije ukurikije gukundwa kwamasaha yo kwibira, cyane cyane amasaha yo kwibira vintage - erega, imishumi ya reberi yaba umugozi mwiza wo kwambara isaha mumazi, nicyo isaha yari igenewe.Ariko, urebye ko amasaha menshi yo kwibira yagurishijwe muri iki gihe ubusanzwe yakoresheje ubuzima bwabo nk "" desktop desktop "kandi ntabwo yigeze abona igihe mumazi, gukoresha umwimerere wa reberi nabyo ntibyari bikenewe.Ariko, ibi ntibyabujije abakunzi benshi amasaha agezweho kubishimira.
Hasi nubuyobozi bwiza bwa reberi yo kureba neza kubiciro bitandukanye.Kuberako ntakibazo cya bije yawe, ugomba kuba ushobora kugura amapine meza.
Umugozi wo mu Busuwisi Tropic wari umwe mu masaha azwi cyane ya reberi yo mu myaka ya za 1960.Tropic irahita imenyekana bitewe nubunini bwayo bworoshye, igishushanyo mbonera cya diyama hamwe na wafle inyuma.Muri kiriya gihe, nk'uburyo bwo gukata ibyuma bidafite ingese, Ubushyuhe bwakunze kuboneka kuri Blaincpain Fifty Fathoms, LIP Nautic n'amasaha atandukanye ya Super Compressor, harimo na Aquatimer y'umwimerere.Kubwamahirwe, moderi nyinshi zumwimerere kuva muri za 1960 ntizifashe neza mugihe, bivuze ko kubona moderi ya vintage bishobora kugorana kandi bihenze.
Mu rwego rwo kwiyongera kwamamara rya retro, ibigo byinshi byagaruye igishushanyo kandi bitangira gusohora ibyo bitandukanye.Ariko, mumyaka yashize, Tropic yagarutse nkikimenyetso cyakozwe na Synchron Watch Group, nayo ikora imishumi ya isophrane hamwe nisaha ya Aquadive.Umugozi wa mm 20 z'ubugari uraboneka mwirabura, umukara, ubururu bwijimye na elayo, bikozwe mubutaliyani bivuye muri reberi y’ibirunga, hypoallergenic kandi irwanya ihindagurika ryubushyuhe.
Mugihe Tropic itari yoroshye nka ISOfrane cyangwa izindi moderi zigezweho, ni isaha ya kera, kandi ubunini bwayo buringaniye bivuze ko ifasha amasaha mato ya diameter kugumana umwirondoro muto ku kuboko.Nubwo hari ibigo byinshi ubu bikora Tropic-yuburyo bwo kureba, itsinda ryihariye rya Tropic ryakozwe neza, riramba, kandi ryuzuye muburyo bwa 1960.
Barton's Elite Silicone Byihuse Gusohora Bande nitsinda rigezweho kandi rihendutse riraboneka mumabara atandukanye.Baraboneka muri 18mm, 20mm na 22mm z'ubugari kandi bagaragaza uburyo bwihuse bwo kurekura kugirango bahindure umukandara byoroshye nta bikoresho.Silicone ikoreshwa iroroshye cyane, ifite ubwiza buhebuje hejuru kandi yoroshye hepfo, kandi amabara arashobora guhuza cyangwa gutandukana.Buri mukandara uza muburebure kandi bugufi, bivuze ko uko ubunini bwikiganza cyawe, ntuzarangiza ufite umugozi udahuye.Buri mukandara ufite icyuma cya 2mm kuva hejuru kugeza kumutwe hamwe na reberi ebyiri zireremba.
Ku $ 20 hari toni yo guhitamo nagaciro.Buri mukandara uraboneka hamwe namabara atanu atandukanye: ibyuma bidafite ingese, umukara, zahabu yumurabyo, zahabu numuringa.Hariho kandi amabara 20 atandukanye yo guhitamo, bivuze ko niyo waba ufite isaha bwoko ki, ushobora kubona isaha ya Barton igukwiranye.
Ikibaho cya ISOfrane yo mu myaka ya za 1960 cyerekanaga isonga rya tekinoroji ikora kandi yoroheje kubakoresha umwuga.Isosiyete ikora uruganda rwa OEM rukora imishumi yisaha ya Omega, Aquastar, Squale, Scubapro na Tissot, kandi abatwara ibinyabiziga babigize umwuga bizeye ISOfrane kugirango bakomeze amasaha yabo mumaboko.Umukono wabo "intambwe", wagurishijwe hamwe na Omega PloProf, byerekana bumwe muburyo bwa mbere bwo gukoresha ibikoresho bya reberi ya sintetike hanze yinganda zitwara ibinyabiziga.
Nyamara, ISOfrane yikubye mugihe cyimyaka ya za 1980, kandi mumyaka yashize ibiciro byubwoko bwa vintage muri cyamunara byazamutse cyane.Kuberako imiti myinshi ikoreshwa muri isoflurane mubyukuri isenya reberi yubukorikori, bike cyane bikomeza kutangirika.
Kubwamahirwe, ISOfrane yasubukuwe muri 2010, kandi ubu ushobora kugura verisiyo igezweho yumukandara wa 1968.Imishumi mishya, iboneka mu mabara atandukanye, yakozwe mu Busuwisi kandi ikorerwa mu Burayi ikoresheje hypoallergenic synthique ya rubber.Ubwoko butandukanye bwamafaranga buraboneka muburyo butandukanye burangiye, harimo RS yahimbwe kandi yarangije intoki RS hamwe na kashe hamwe n'umucanga IN.Niba ubishaka, urashobora no gutumiza umukandara hamwe no kwagura wetsuit.
ISOfrane 1968 ni umugozi wagenewe abadandaza babigize umwuga, kandi igiciro cyacyo kirabigaragaza.Na none kandi, ntugomba kuba umuterankunga kugirango ushimishe filozofiya yo gushushanya hamwe nubwiza bwuyu mugozi udasanzwe ushobora gukoreshwa numuntu wese ukina siporo cyangwa wambaye isaha mu mazi.
Rubber nigikoresho cyihariye cyo kureba ibintu muburyo bwinshi, kimwe muricyo nuko gishobora gucapishwa inyandiko kandi kigashyiramo amakuru yingirakamaro kuri bande ubwayo.Zuludiver 286 NDL umukandara (ntabwo ari izina ryimibonano mpuzabitsina, ariko itanga amakuru) mubyukuri ifite imbonerahamwe ntarengwa yo gutambuka yanditswe kumukandara kugirango yerekane byihuse (imipaka ntarengwa yo kuguha uburebure bwigihe ushobora kumara nta decompression ihagarara kumukandara. ).kuzamuka).Mugihe byoroshye kuri mudasobwa yawe yibiza guhita ibara izo mipaka igahagarara, nibyiza kubigira no kugusubiza mugihe mudasobwa ya bracelet itaguhaye aya makuru.
Umukandara ubwawo uraboneka mwirabura, ubururu, orange n'umutuku, mubunini bwa 20mm na 22mm, hamwe n'amashanyarazi y'icyuma yogejwe kandi yometse hejuru.Rubber ikoreshwa hano irashwanyaguzwa hamwe nubushyuhe bwo mu turere dushyuha.Mugihe igishushanyo mbonera cya kaburimbo hafi yimigozi gishobora kuba atari kubantu bose, iyi mishumi iroroshye kandi yoroshye, kandi ameza ya NDL nikintu cyiza cyane - ushobora no guhanagura umukandara hejuru kugirango ugaragare, cyangwa ukawufata neza.uruhu rwawe nkigice cyo hasi cyumukandara mubyukuri ni impande ebyiri.
Ibikoresho byinshi bya reberi biha isaha siporo, isanzwe kandi ni amahitamo afatika kubikorwa bisaba ubushuhe bwinshi cyangwa ibyuya.Ariko, mubisanzwe ntabwo bihindagurika cyane muburyo.B&R igurisha ubwoko butandukanye bwimyitozo ngororamubiri, ariko imishumi yayo idashobora gukoreshwa na canvas-yongewemo flair kumasaha ya siporo.Nibyiza kandi byiza rwose, birumvikana, nkuko izina ribigaragaza, nibyiza gukoreshwa mumazi.
Iraboneka muri 20mm, 22mm na 24mm z'ubugari, kandi iraboneka murwego rwamabara adoda kugirango ihuze na siporo iyo ari yo yose.Twasanze verisiyo yera idoze kugirango ihuze cyane.Amashanyarazi yicyuma apima 80mm kuruhande rugufi na 120mm kuruhande rurerure kugirango ahuze ubunini bwamaboko.Iyi mishumi yoroshye, yoroheje ya polyurethane itanga uburyo butandukanye bwo kwambara kandi irakwiriye kumasaha atandukanye.
“Igitambara cya wafle” (mu buryo bwa tekiniki kizwi ku izina rya ZLM01) ni igihangano cya Seiko kandi ni cyo gitambara cya mbere cyabigenewe cyateguwe n’ikimenyetso mu 1967 (Abashitsi ba Seiko rimwe na rimwe bambaraga Tropic mbere yuko 62MAS isohoka).Urebye umurongo wa wafle, biroroshye kubona aho iryo zina rituruka: hari icyuma cyihariye cya wafle hejuru hejuru biragoye kubura.Kimwe na Tropic, imishumi ya shitingi ishaje ikunda gucika no kumeneka, bityo kubona imwe mumeze neza uyumunsi udakoresheje amafaranga menshi biragoye.
Uncle Seiko Black Edition Wafers ije muburyo butandukanye no mubunini: moderi ya 19mm na 20mm ipima 126mm kuruhande rurerure na 75mm kuruhande rugufi kandi ikagaragaza utubari twinshi twa 2.5mm, mugihe verisiyo ya 22mm iboneka muburyo bubiri.Imisusire.Ingano irimo verisiyo ngufi (75mm / 125mm) na verisiyo ndende (80mm / 130mm).Urashobora kandi guhitamo ubugari bwa 22mm hamwe na buckle imwe cyangwa ebyiri, byose mubyuma byogejwe.
Kimwe nu mukanda wa Tropic, biragoye kwemeza ko nta bishushanyo mbonera bigezweho na ergonomique biri hanze, ariko niba ushaka retro reba, Waffle ni amahitamo meza.Ikirenzeho, verisiyo ya Seiko ya Seiko yanyuze mubyerekezo bibiri, bivuze ko ibitekerezo byabakiriya byemereye verisiyo ya kabiri kunozwa, bigatuma irushaho kuba nziza kandi ishobora kwambara.
Ikibiriti gisanzwe cya Hirsch Urbane nigitambara kigezweho rwose gifite ubunini na taper bisa cyane nigitambara cyuruhu, gifite ishusho igoye yiyongera kandi ikaguka kumitsi.Urbane irwanya amazi, amarira, UV, imiti nubushyuhe bukabije.Hirsch avuga ko ari byiza kandi ku bantu bafite uruhu rworoshye.Nibikoresho byoroshye, byoroshye cyane bya reberi yubatswe muri clips zireremba hamwe nimpande zisobanutse neza cyane kuruta tekiniki.
Urbane ikozwe muri reberi nziza yo mu rwego rwo hejuru (reberi itavanze) kandi ifite uburebure bwa 120mm.Muburyo ubwo aribwo bwose, urashobora guhitamo indobo: ifeza, zahabu, umukara cyangwa matte.Mugihe Urbane ikora cyane nkumukandara wo kwibira, nabwo ni amahitamo meza kubantu bafite uruhu rworoshye bashaka umugozi wa reberi aho gukenyera uruhu cyangwa umugozi wa alligator / umuserebanya ku isaha yabo yubucuruzi.
Urebye ko kwamamaza kwa Shinola byibanda ku nganda z’Abanyamerika, ntibitangaje kuba na Shinola ya reberi ikorerwa muri Amerika.By'umwihariko, iyi mishumi ikorerwa muri Minnesota na Stern, isosiyete ikora ibicuruzwa bya rubber kuva 1969 (reba amashusho yamamaza Shinola Manufacturing Process yamamaza amakuru menshi ndetse na bimwe mubitambara).
Ikozwe muri reberi yibirunga, uyu mukandara ntabwo ari muto;ni muremure, bigatuma biba byiza kumasaha yo kwibira cyangwa kureba ibikoresho.Igishushanyo kirimo umusozi mwinshi hagati, wanditse munsi kugirango ufate ukuboko kwizewe, hamwe nibisobanuro nka zipper ya Shinola ishushanyijeho kumpera ndende hamwe nuduseke twa orange kuruhande.Iza mumabara gakondo ya reberi yamabara yumukara, navy na orange, no mubunini bwa 20mm cyangwa 22mm (ubururu 22mm bugurishwa mugihe cyo kwandika).
Amateka ya Everest Strap nimwe mumasosiyete make akora gusa reberi ya reberi kumasaha ya Rolex.Mike DiMartini washinze isosiyete yari yiteguye kureka akazi yakoraga kugira ngo atangire gutanga ibyo yizeraga ko ari byiza cyane kandi byateguwe neza nyuma y’imikino ya siporo ya Rolex ya siporo, kandi nyuma y’amamiliyoni y’imishumi yakozwe, byagaragaje ko icyemezo cye ari icyemezo cy’ubwenge.Impera za Everest zigoramye zagenewe gukoreshwa muburyo bwa Rolex, bityo zikaba zifite umurongo udasanzwe kandi ziranga ultra-ikomeye ya Rolex-yuburyo bwimvura.Hitamo gusa moderi yawe ya Rolex kurubuga rwa Everest urahabona uburyo bwo gukenyera kumasaha yawe.
Everest imishumi ikorerwa mubusuwisi kandi iraboneka mumabara atandatu yihariye.Ibiti bya reberi ya Everest yibirunga bituma bakora hypoallergenic, irwanya UV, itagira umukungugu, irinda amazi na chimique.Uburebure bwabo ni 120 x 80 mm.Rubber iroroshye cyane, kandi buri mukandara urimo 316L yamashanyarazi yamashanyarazi hamwe namashanyarazi abiri areremba.Umukandara uza mu ibahasha yuzuye ya pulasitike hamwe na Velcro ebyiri zifunze, ubwazo zikaza mu ibahasha ifite akabari gasimburwa.
Uruhare rufite ubuziranenge butandukanye nyuma ya reberi ya reberi, nkaIbice bya rubber.
Birumvikana ko imishumi ya reberi ntabwo ari ibikorwa byamazi gusa.Waba ubira icyuya cyane mugihe cyimyitozo ngororangingo, nko mugihe cyumukino wa basketball udasanzwe cyangwa kurwana bidasanzwe na murumuna wawe hejuru yuwari ufite televiziyo kure muri iryo joro?Noneho, dufite umukandara kuri wewe?
Ubwoko butandukanye bwa kamere na sintetike ya reberi (reba hano hepfo kubitandukanya reberi na silicone) birashobora gutanga ihumure ryiza nuburyo bwa siporo.Nibikoresho byiza byo kubira ibyuya nubwoko bworoshye bwogusukura - mugihe rwose ushobora kwibiza umurongo wa BD SEAL mumazi, gutegereza ko byuma mubindi bitari dogere 90 birashobora gushimisha.Ntabwo dusaba kandi gushyira umukandara w'amadorari 150 mu binyobwa byawe.
Haba hari itandukaniro hagati ya reberi na silicone?Hoba hariho umwe mwiza?Ukwiye kubyitaho?Basangiye ibyiza bimwe, ariko ibyiza byabo biraganirwaho cyane mubakunda amasaha.Tuzabahuza hamwe muriki gitabo, nibyiza rero kumenya ibyiza n'ibibi byabo.
Rubber na silicone ntabwo aribikoresho byihariye ubwabyo, ahubwo ni ubwoko bwibikoresho, ntabwo rero imishumi yose ikozwe muri yo yaremewe kimwe.Impaka zerekeranye na rubber vs silicone mumasaha yo kureba akenshi yibanda kumitungo mike: ubworoherane nibyiza bya silicone hamwe nigihe kirekire cya reberi, ariko ikibabaje, ntabwo byoroshye.
Silicone imishumi muri rusange yoroshye cyane, ihindagurika kandi yoroshye, ndetse no mubice byingengo yimari.Mugihe umurongo wa silicone ushobora kuba udashobora kuramba (kandi ukunda gukurura umukungugu na lint), ntabwo uhindagurika kandi ntushobora kwangirika cyane - keretse niba ukora ikintu gishobora no gusuzuma neza igihe cyamasaha.Ntidutindiganya gusaba umugozi wa silicone kwambara buri munsi.
Kurundi ruhande, imishumi yitwa "reberi" iza muburyo butandukanye.Hariho reberi karemano (urabizi, uhereye ku giti nyacyo cya reberi), nanone bita reberi mbisi, hamwe na rubber nyinshi.Uzabona ijambo reberi ya volcanised rubber, ni reberi karemano yakomejwe nubushyuhe na sulfuru.Iyo abantu binubira amabuye ya reberi, mubisanzwe biterwa nuko bikabije - abakunzi benshi bareba ndetse batanga inama yo gutekesha amabuye kugirango barekure byoroshye.Ibikoresho bimwe bya reberi bizwiho gucika igihe.
Ariko amabuye yo mu rwego rwohejuru ya reberi yoroshye, yoroshye, kandi aramba - guhitamo gukomeye muri rusange, ariko mubisanzwe ugomba kwishyura byinshi kuri bo.Nibyiza kubona itsinda kumuntu mbere yo kugura, ariko niba ugura kumurongo, menya neza gusoma cyangwa kubona ibyifuzo (nkibiri hejuru).
Igihe cyo kohereza: Nzeri-15-2023